At Makemo, we experienced dead calm conditions - all through the night and into the dawn.
By day the lagoon was infinite - our sight stretched out to the far flat horizon, and then bounced back to us. At night the stars and clouds chased each other in the lagoon's embrace.
What a four-year-old thinks about it all:
We sailed into the west pass of Makemo a couple days earlier with bad light for seeing coral. It was an easy overnight sail from Fakarava. The crew was anxious to see what we would find in this new place.
Or not quite new, as Makemo was the first atoll we ever visited, six years ago. We remembered the anchorage off an uninhabited motu as a likely spot for celebrating Elias' 8th birthday.
The birthday beach barbecue was, unfortunately, rained out.
So, Elias' birthday was only ten days ago as I write this. And it seems a lifetime ago. We're now two anchorages, two passes, two nights of sailing, and one atoll further down the line. We've made quick friendships, and said goodbye to new friends with some unaccustomed drama. We've dealt with a dozen situations of mutual incomprehension and wondered how we might fit in for a while in a place where we've never been before.
As always when the sailing/traveling is this good, internet access is not up to the task of keeping current on it all.