Saturday, November 7, 2015

Hot Dust

It's a very sensory memory.

Steering in Beagle Channel.
He's not much good at it.
But he is five.
Used to be, not so long ago, that if you went out and had a bit of an adventure, afterwards you'd entertain your friends back home with a slide show.

There was that smell of the dust burning on the hot lamp of the projector in the dark room.  Other motes of dust swimming through the cone of light reaching out to the screen.  The storytelling.  The license that the audience felt to offer wry commentary in the dark.

I realize that it's painfully unrealistic to be sentimental about things analog.  We must not even mourn books.  The only way is forward, and now that everything we have is files, there is nothing we have lost in the translation.

But, those slide shows were a big part of life in Alaska, way back in the 90's.  I was thinking about them when we were going through our pics from the jaunt around the Beagle Channel that we've just finished.


Beagle Channel
Larrikin.  Caleta Victor Jarra.

Midden, Caleta Victor Jarra.
Ashy-headed geese.

Caleta Ferrari, Bahía Yendegaia.  Friends of ours had stories of riding horses and butchering cattle here, but the place is now deserted.  
We were blessed on this trip by an unreasonable number of blue-sky days.  The westerly winds that could have made the trip westward along the canal trying were restrained.

Guanaco

Rufous-chested dotterel
Ventisquero Holanda, Caleta Olla
Brazo Noroeste, Beagle Channel
Ventisquero Holanda, Caleta Olla 



The western end of the Beagle Channel splits into two arms around Isla Gordon - the Brazo Noroeste and Brazo Sudoeste.  It is the most spectacular region in all of the Chilean canales.  Last time through, on the tail end of our trip south from Valdivia, we hurried along a bit to catch a flight out of Puerto Williams to visit family in the U.S.  And some of the caletas we wanted to visit were iced over.  This was our chance to see the place more thoroughly, at our leisure.


Manuel the fisherman
 In Caleta Olla we had a Polynesian-style session of reciprocal gift-giving with a centolla (king crab) fisherman named Manuel.  Smokes and wine went in one direction, and centolla in the other.  Manuel had the great gift of being able to dumb down his Spanish enough for us to converse.  We learned from him that the centolla fishermen stay out for five months at a stretch.  The owners of the boats keep about 60% of the catch, and the fishermen themselves make pitifully little for their pains.

After two visits from Manuel we had a complete surfeit of centolla.  Alisa came up with a range of new crab dishes.

Later, when we were fishing for centolla ourselves and I explained to Elias that we wouldn't keep any females we caught, he asked why we had accepted females (which are prohibited to catch) from Manuel.

Nothing like a kid to keep you honest.

Eggs and crab
Cleaning session
Crab soup
Crab cakes



Seno Pia was iced up when we tried to visit in July.  When we returned the conditions made up for that earlier disappointment.

Seno Pia (left) is where we began our glacier tourism.

We could have gotten pictures like this a hundred miles from our home in Kodiak.

But I'm glad we went to the trouble to come all the way down here to get these.
Glacier tour




Caleta Beaulieu, Seno Pia.  Fresh ice on the water but plenty of sun ahead.

How ' bout if we picnic here?  We got two spectacular condor fly-bys at this spot - maybe 15m and 10m(!) away from us.
I call this the concerned mom frown, and we get endless laughs about how it turns up again and again in our photos, even in idyllic-looking moments like this.  Someone has to keep our crew in order.  As often as not it's Alisa. 
Caleta Beaulieu

Seno Pia

Elias is good company in these places.



More soon.  But for just now, the weather has turned beatific and we have a fresh zarpe in hand, giving us permission to sally forth from Puerto Williams one more time...

Thursday, November 5, 2015

Freedom

Caleta Victor Jarra

Land anchor
So, pulling into treeless Caleta Victor Jarra in a gale - that was about a six on the Scale of Unintended Drama.

Luckily, I can jam chain in rock cracks pretty well.  All those years of climbing finally came in handy.  I wonder when knowing how to sail will come in handy.

Well, I suppose that will always be useful...as long as we keep sailing.

Once we stop, it will be about as useful as that hard-won climbing knowledge of mine.

(I resist the interpretation of my life story as the pursuit of useless craft.)

Anyway, we sat in Victor Jarra for a couple days, listening to the wind blow.  Then the the weather broke this morning.  We smelled our freedom.  So we pulled the chains out of the cracks and unslung the cables from the boulders and made tracks for Puerto Williams.

By the time we were arriving in Puerto Williams, the weather had un-broke again.  Seven and a half knots running with the staysail rolled down to the little marks that are meant to denote two reefs.

We came around the big sand spit outside Puerto Williams and managed to flip Smooches, our inflatable, which we were unwisely towing behind the boat.

Call that another 6 on the Unintended Drama Scale.

When we pulled into the little Seno in Puerto Williams, it was still blowin', so we tied up in the easiest spot.  That turned out to be the wrong spot, and the management of the Micalvi asked us to move.

I kind of stuffed the "disengage in big winds" maneuver when we departed for the right spot.

That was a four on the Scale.  No blood, no foul, I maintain.
Ripper sail
So now we're here.  Won't be for long, I expect.  I can feel the summer energy, just like in Alaska.  This is the season for doin' stuff.  Which we're gonna.

With any luck I'll have a chance to upload some pics from the last month before we go.

You're not gonna believe 'em.

Monday, November 2, 2015

Heavens!

Miles Smeeton, in his classic sailing account Once Is Enough, talks about getting an officer evaluation during his time in World War II that read in part: This officer shows great skill at getting out of situations that he never should have gotten into.

I am not going to compare us to the Smeetons, one of the founding couples of the "life is short, and the world is big" philosophy of going down to the sea in your own boat. Nor am I keen to compete with them in terms of getting out of situations that we shouldn't have gotten into. Read Once Is Enough if you get a chance.

But that bit of the book did come back to me yesterday afternoon.

"Heaven!" I thought I heard Alisa say. Which didn't make sense in the context.

"What?" I asked.

"Heavens!" she clarified.

That made more sense.

Perhaps the problem came from planning ahead, an idea that should be resisted in certain circumstances.

When we were sitting out a day of poor weather back in the southwest arm of Beagle Channel we planned our return to Puerto Williams. One day to the anchorage at Caleta Victor Jarra, and the next day back to the Micalvi (the Uttermost Yacht Club In The World), where we would prepare for our next jaunt.

We had a ripper sail to Victor Jarra. Running under staysail alone at seven knots. That sort of thing.

But then we sailed into Bahia Honda and rolled up the staysail and Alisa and Elias got Fernando the hard dinghy off the deck while I held us in place by motoring into the wind. It was blowing hard enough to make maneuvering in tight quarters difficult.

And then we motored into Victor Jarra itself and the flaw in our plan became apparent. That caleta has no trees for tying into and only a low skerrick of land to windward to keep out the waves, and nothing to keep out the wind.

We were keen for the security of tying in, not wanting to spend the night swinging around the little anchorage in fifty-knot gusts. But there were no trees to help us out, and there was no question of backing into the little cove to windward in those conditions.

So we ended up motoring bow-first into the cove and dropping the fairly massive Rocna, which did us the great favor of holding well on 20 meters of bar-tight chain in three or four meters of water. There was also a bit about me motoring into the gusts at full throttle inside the little caleta while Alisa ran up and down the companionway to free the chain that had fouled itself during the ripper sail.

But eventually we did get the anchor to hold us while I started the process of getting lines ashore. Happily, the boys forwent their normal indulgence of screaming and fighting while we were dealing with a tricky anchoring situation.

We ended up with a cat's cradle of five lines holding us perfectly in place, each one tied off on a bit of cable slung around a boulder or a knotted length of chain jammed into a crack in the rocks. It took a long time to get it all in place. Alisa was getting blown off balance while she handled the lines on deck, and rowing Fernando ashore was more dramatic than normal.

I had the strangest deja vu at one point, wandering around on a rocky section of coast, with a shoreline tied around my waist, looking for a crack that might take a knotted chain and hold a yacht in a gale as well. Just like some alpine route with rock gear, wandering around at the end of the rope, looking for a belay.

The fishermen, meanwhile, were tucked up against a cliff out in Bahia Honda, out of the wind. We'll learn. But the process isn't over.

We slept completely, knowing that we were secure no matter what kind of wind blew. And woke to driving snow, and the shoreline around us gone white, and slush balls falling off the rigging and landing on deck with an impact that would wake a dead sailor to say, "what's that?"